|
|
Lake Bogoria is a
saline water shallow located at the northern region of the Kenyan Rift, 25 km
south of Baringo. The reserve covers the lake and adjacent lands, with 107 kmē.
In the Colony days the lake was known by the name of its discoverer, the Kampala
bishop James Hannington, who in 1885 was the first European to sight this place
while he was heading for his diocese following Thomson's route. This would be
the glory day for the priest, but also his last journey, since upon reaching
Lake Victoria he was murdered by order of the cruel king of Buganda, Mwanga II.
If Baringo is increasingly attracting more
visitors because of its plentiful birdlife, Bogoria is, or at least it was until
few years ago, a place where the visitor can enjoy the spectacular African
scenery in full solitude. Except for ornithology lovers, who don't forgive the
pilgrimage to Baringo, this region is quite off the most common itineraries,
specially the one-weekers. The reason is that Bogoria is far from outstanding
for its mammals' wildlife, the paramount objective for most tourists. Albeit,
whether I had to choose a single park for which just the beauty of the landscape
is worth a visit, it would probably be this one.
J.W. Gregory, the English geologist who
travelled the region in 1892, blessed the site as "the most beautiful view in
Africa". He wasn't off track. The lake displays a superb scenery of bluish hills
populated with dry bush, grasslands and riverine forests, framing the calm water
shallow pinned with flamingoes. Beyond the eastern shore, the soil rises
abruptly to 600 m in the Laikipia Escarpment. At the opposite edge, the earth
forms strangely coloured swampy crusts, which break up in deep gaps spitting
stinky sulphur waters and steam jets. The close-up geysers, the pink
brushstrokes of the flamingoes on the lake and farther the dramatic backdrop of
the Laikipia Escarpment, convey a hardly beatable aesthetical composition. But
watch out, don't get too close, the signposts warning "Stop - danger zone - go
back" are serious: the earth collapses under your feet and beneath there is
boiling water.
Bogoria is not even
the least of a wildlife desert. Good wildlife fans will appreciate the
unparalleled value of being the most accessible place in all the country where
you have the chance to spot the majestic greater kudu. In addition to other
mammals, flamingoes and a variety of birds fill up the wildlife supply of this
reserve.
Acces:
Lake Bogoria is located at the Rift Valley, only 25 km south of Lake Baringo,
though the actual distance by road is greater. Therefore, to arrive from
Nairobi, Nakuru, Samburu or Eldoret, applies everything mentioned under how to
reach Lake Baringo. Given that there are no lodges at Bogoria, the most usual
choice is seeking accommodation in Baringo and making it for the nearby reserve
on a day trip.
There are three gates to the reserve, all of
them accessible from by-roads off the B4 main road leading to Baringo. The main
gate is Loboi Gate, at the lake's north end. The detour eastward from the B4 is
4 km south of Marigat. A paved road, the E461, heads for Loboi and the gate
after a 21 km stretch.
The two remaining gates are southward, taking
the east turn off B4 at Mogotio, 59 km south of Marigat. This road covers some
20 km up to Mugurin. One kilometer ahead, the road splits into two. The left
track heads on for some 20 km until a right turn-off which leads you to Maji
Moto Gate, close to the hot springs. On the other hand, the track at the right,
badly damaged and quite steep at some stretches, covers 14 km before reaching
Emsos Gate, the southernmost gate, at the reserve's forest area.
Finally, there is also a scenic route to reach
Emsos Gate from Nakuru, climbing from the Rift Valley bed up the eastern
escarpment to drop back down again to Bogoria. A good part of this way is only
accessible to 4WD vehicles. Leaving Nakuru along the A104 to Nairobi, take the
tarred B5 road northeastward to Nyahururu. Along the way there are several
detours heading northward for Bogoria, taking as reference points the towns of
Subukia and Solai. If you are not self-driving, you can take a bus or matatu for
the paved stretch, but afterwards you will have to walk for some two days.
Wildlife:
Bogoria is not recognised as a place of mammal diversity, though the quantity is
far from a demerit to quality. The top attractive of this reserve relies on the
fact that it has become a sanctuary for the protection of the greater kudu, a
shy antelope usually inhabiting open forests in mountain regions. If Bogoria and
Baringo are the northernmost stops in your trip, you will never see this animal
in any other park. They are so abundant in Bogoria now that sightings are not
rare. The greater kudu is a beautiful animal with large spiral horns and a
fringe of hair on the throat (only the bulls), wide ears, the body vertically
striped in white and a characteristic white chevron between the eyes. The
greater kudu population, formerly very extended, was severely affected by
rinderpest transmitted by cattle over the 19th century, restricting its habitat
away from the livestock haunts.
Other mammals in the reserve include buffalo,
baboon, Grant's gazelle, Kirk's dik-dik and klipspringer, the latter at the
rocky slopes south and east of the lake.
Same as in all the Rift Valley lakes, birdlife
is plentiful and diverse in Bogoria. The lake is regularly visited by thousands
of greater and lesser flamingoes, which gather at the shore opposite to the hot
springs. However, occasionally curiosity kills the flamingo as well, since some
unaware specimens die victims of sulphur emanations and high temperatures. The
reserve also hosts among others some vultures, bustards, larks and prey birds,
worth to mention the fish eagles, which due to the lack of fish have learned to
hover on flamingoes.
In the last years,
deaths of lesser flamingoes have increased alarmingly, replicating the high
mortality recorded in 1994-95, specially at Lake Nakuru. Apparently, the
phenomenon is due to the poisoning of waters by heavy metals and toxins as a
consequence of toxic algae overgrowth in the lake waters, which the flamingoes
filter through their bills while feeding.
Lodging:
There are no lodges at Bogoria, just a couple of hotel-style accommodations.
Both are located outside the reserve, nearby Loboi Gate. The Lake Bogoria Hotel
offers a hot water pool. Nearby is the Papyrus Inn, belonging to the same owner
as the Papyrus Annex in Baringo. You may camp at the garden here for a modest
sum.
If you prefer a lodge-style, the best choice
is to stay at one of the Lake Baringo lodges, from where you can plan a day trip
to Bogoria.
Camping:
The reserve hosts three camp sites, all south of the lake and all without
facilities, so bring your own supplies. The one you will hear about is the Fig
Tree Campsite, a place shaded by the figs, traversed by a clear water stream and
with a natural jacuzzi, a cool haven within Bogoria's high daylight temperatures.
Access to the site is a winding rocky narrow track. The Acacia Campsite,
obviously placed beneath the acacias, lies at the rocky lake shore and has
latrines. Finally, the Riverside Campsite does not have even water.
There is also the chance to camp by the Loboi
Gate, as well as at the Papyrus Inn garden.
source:
outtoAfrica
|